The journey began in Buenos Aires, heading to Cancún, Mexico. After spending a night in the city, we took a van south to Xcalak, a small fishing village located at the southernmost tip of the Mexican Caribbean, right on the border with Belize. On the way, we made a must-see stop: the Tulum ruins.

A Brief Encounter with the Mayans

Before arriving in Xcalak, we visited the ruins of Tulum, an ancient Mayan settlement perched above the Caribbean Sea. The Mayan civilization was one of the most advanced in Mesoamerica: they developed a complex writing system, monumental architecture, deep astronomical knowledge, and a remarkably accurate calendar. Tulum was an important maritime trading hub and one of the few Mayan cities built by the sea.
It’s well worth visiting the site with a guide, as they enrich the experience with historical context and fascinating details: how the Mayans lived, how their society was organized, what their temples symbolized, and how they aligned buildings with astronomical events.
A fun detail: the ruins are full of iguanas basking on the warm stones, blending into the ancient landscape like they’ve been there forever. It's an unforgettable experience before diving into the fishing world.
There’s something about that connection between history and nature that still resonates in Xcalak. Just like the Mayans lived in harmony with their surroundings, today this corner of the Caribbean carries a similar spirit: simple, authentic, and deeply connected to the sea and the land.

A Journey into the Deep Caribbean

From Cancún to Xcalak is about a 4-hour drive. Most of the route is along a highway, but the final stretch winds through a mangrove jungle that hints at what’s to come. When we arrived, we stayed at the Xcalak Paradise Fly Fishing Lodge, a newly opened lodge run by Santiago Derendinger.
The lodge lives up to its name: cozy rooms with private bathrooms, warm decor, and thoughtful touches throughout. There’s also a pool to relax in after a long day of fishing, and a well-stocked bar to unwind with a drink in hand. The hospitality was top-notch — they truly make you feel at home.
We shared the experience with three Brazilian friends — Celso, Robson, and Kelven — and together we made a great group.

Mexican Cuisine and a Spicy Warning

The food was another highlight: fresh fish, lobster, shrimp, octopus, vegetables, and of course, spicy sauces. Here’s a friendly warning: when a Mexican says “it’s just a little spicy,” it usually means it’s very spicy. If they say “it has some heat,” brace yourself. And if they just say “it’s spicy,” prepare for your mouth to go numb. 

Xcalak: A Resilient Coastal Village

Few know this, but Xcalak’s history is also shaped by the days of pirates and privateers. Thanks to its strategic location and protected bay, this part of the Caribbean was once used as a hideout by pirates navigating Atlantic waters, seeking shelter from colonial authorities or sudden storms. Calm waters and natural mangrove channels made it the perfect spot to lay low.
Today, Xcalak has only around 400 residents and remains one of the last untouched corners of the Mexican Caribbean. In the early 20th century, it was a thriving port for exporting coconuts and chicle. That prosperity ended abruptly in 1955, when Hurricane Janet, one of the most devastating storms in the region’s history, destroyed nearly everything. Since then, the town has slowly rebuilt itself, avoiding mass development and preserving its quiet, ocean-bound identity.

The Village, the Sea, and the Fishing

Xcalak is the perfect place to disconnect. The lodge is just one block from the beach, where each morning around 8 a.m., boats depart for a full day of fishing. The day wraps up around 4 p.m., leaving time for other activities like snorkeling or diving. Xcalak lies within a national park and faces the second-largest barrier reef in the world, after Australia’s. A true ecological gem.

Bonefish, Permits, Tarpons, and a Jack to Remember

Bonefishing was a lot of fun. Always sight-fishing in coastal flats or among mangroves. Sometimes in schools, sometimes solitary — and those loners tend to be bigger.
But without a doubt, one of the highlights was chasing permits. We saw plenty, and I now understand why anglers are so obsessed with this species: it’s a constant challenge. We had a very windy week, which made precise casts difficult. We had strikes, rejections, and even a permit that shook off the hook after being hooked. The most effective flies were yellow crab imitations, especially those mimicking the Sargassum crab — ideal for the clear waters and sandy bottoms.
We also targeted tarpons in two distinct zones: inside the bay and in the coastal strip near the reef. We landed some, lost others — but the adrenaline was always flowing.
And among all the catches, one stood out: a jack that, on its first run, peeled off 130 meters of backing, burning fingers with a tight drag and a #10 rod. An unforgettable moment. I’m still surprised jacks aren’t more recognized as a sport species — they’re incredibly powerful.

People and Spirit

The trip wouldn’t have been the same without the people. At the lodge and in the village, everyone was genuinely warm and welcoming: Arturo, Rossi, Alberto, Junior, Perche, Lazaro... each one added to the experience with kindness and great vibes. And for those of us who travel to fish, that matters just as much.
As I always say, great trips are 360-degree experiences — fishing is just one part of many that make them special.

More Information

To learn more about Xcalak or to book your fly fishing adventure:
Website: https://xcalak.mx/
Contact Santiago Derendinger: +54 9 3834 76-1234