Straighten the hook eye. It makes it more elegant and the fly works better. Cover the hook with thread towards the bend, where we tie a pheasant crest, straight. Continue threading until the point we see in the picture.
Take some copper wire, medium width; flatten it for half a centimeter long. Tie the copper wire in its flat section so it makes a neat cylinder body. Tie towards the front evenly.Tie the copper tinsel (first cut a V-shape on its tipso it does not bulk up unnecessarily where we tie). Go evenly towards the back,turns should be independent from each other, not on top. Then, go back to thefront. This way the tinsel turns block each other and remain firm. This is whata good tier does. View more...
Take a long hen feather with short fibers, these should not be longer than the hook gap. We can only find these in genetic hens like Whiting’s, if not we can use a very soft rooster feather, sometimes found in low quality rooster feathers.
We can see how the wire works and how the feather was wrapped. The feather goes in opposite direction of the wire, making a strong tie. The length of the hen fibers should be half the hook gap, to make a fine realistic abdomen. This feather adds transparency and movement illusions allowing the silhouette to be seen.
Tear the fibers out with some tweezers in the upper part of the fly. Tear them in the opposite direction of its natural inclination. This leaves the abdomen totally clean.Take a grouse feather, finely barred. Its fibersshould be 1 ½ times longer than the hen feathers used for the body. Open thefeather and tie it by its thinner tip, with its best color on the top.
Separate two turkey sections, one from the right and the other from the left. It’s better if the pair of wings is symmetrical.
Take the grouse hackle fibers out carefully. Use the thread to make a base layer and then tie the turkey sections. First put together the concave parts of the turkey sections, tie softly without pressing the feather first, then pull the thread upwards so that the fibers get pressed together in the same spot. The picture shows this.
Finish with a short conic head, tie and paint with black marker before adding lacquer. I use varnish or synthetic enamel because, although it’s slower to dry, it doesn’t whiten with time.
The Copper Illusion is now finished.